Development
of human civilisation was heavily dependent on discovery of metals.
Pre-historic man gradually understood the use of metals and started to use them
for various purposes. He started fashioning them into weapons and tools. With
the progress of time he discovered metals like copper, bronze, silver &
gold. He started using these metals for personal adornment and one after the
other advancements were made in the way jewelry was fashioned by him. As a
result, beautiful techniques were developed to decorate metal.
This
post of The Jewel Affair is an effort to explore the journey of how these
techniques evolved over the centuries. Some of the most popular techniques are:
FILIGREE:
it can be defined as an ornamental technique where twisted wires of silver and
gold are joined together to create an open framework. The word filigree is
derived from the Latin word filum
meaning thread. Filigree is also known as telkari-
Anatolian word meaning wire work.
Filigree
is an ancient art which was practised by the Greeks and Etruscans (ancient
Italian Civilisation). This art advanced the most in the period from the 6th
Century B.C- 3rd Century B.C. In the Medieval times it was practised
by the Moors of Spain. Moors were the Medieval Muslim inhabitants who practised
this art to perfection and created exquisite designs. Around 600 A.D the Irish
craftsmen became renowned for the variety they brought about in the art.
Filigree
still exists in India, Mexico and Scandinavian countries. In India the
craftsmen till date retain the patterns of the ancients Greeks. These patterns
are believed to be passed on from the time the Greeks came to settle down in
India. Cuttack in Orissa still showcases traditional filigree work.
Filigree
is of two kinds:
Open:
in open filigree the wirework is an open framework. There is no metal backing
or support.
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| OPEN FILIGREE |
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| CLOSED FILIGREE |
REPOUSSE´
& CHASING: This is technique of freehand hammering which uses specific
tools to create relief work. This technique is a combination of two techniques
put together.
Repousse´ is a French word which means to
‘push out’. In this technique the metal is hammered from both front and back to
create a sculptural relief. It is believed to be an ancient technique. Armour plates
decorated with this technique are found which date back to the 3rd
century B.C. Repousse` is of two kinds:
- Eastern Repousse´
- Western Repousse´
The
difference between these two techniques is basically of the tool shapes and the
angle at which the metal is struck. And the most notable difference is of the
height and depth created in the relief. Eastern technique was used by ancient
Egyptians and Greeks and Western technique moreover used in western Europe,
Japan, Thailand and other parts of Asia.
The most
famous examples of Eastern Repousse` are the Gold Mask of Tutankhamun and
Vaphio cups. The biggest sculpture created with this technique is The Statue of
Liberty.
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| GOLD MASK OF PHARAOH TUTANKHAMUN |
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| VAPHIO CUPS |
On the other hand, chasing is used only on the
front side of the metal to bring finesse to the design. This is usually a slow
process and there is no loss of metal. The only disadvantage of this process is
that contact of tools with the metal is evident unlike other techniques.
A
repousse` artist uses a working surface which is called the chaser’s surface.
It is made of pitch which is a viscous polymer derived from coal tar, resin and
plaster of Paris. This surface keeps the metal in place while it is hammered.
ENAMELLING:
in this technique coloured powdered glass is used create a transparent coat on
the metal. Powdered glass is fused on to the metal by application of heat, the
glass then melts and flows and is fused to the metal. This is an ancient
technique of decorating jewels and artefacts. The earliest remains of enamelled
artefacts dates back to 13th century B.C. This technique in
modification was used largely by the Egyptians and Romans.
There
are various enamelling techniques which are used, but this post deals with four
most popular techniques:
CHAMPLEVE´:
it is French word meaning ‘raised-field’. This technique blossomed fully in the
12th century and was most popularly practiced in France and Italy.
For Champleve` a slightly thicker metal sheet is used and patterns are
developed by creating a low relief. Basically, the metal is shaved out a bit to
create space for enamel to be filled in. The recessed areas are then filled
with powdered enamels and heated so that the enamel melts. Enamel is built up
in layers so that it reaches the same height as that of the remaining metal.
This technique was used mostly with copper.
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| CHAMPLEVE´ |
BASSE-TAILLE:
Basse-Taille literally means low cutting or engraving in French. It is
an
extension of Champleve´ technique and developed to its best in 13th-14th
century. It is slightly different from Champleve`. The basic difference is that
the area which is shaved out, in that area a figure or a design is chased out
and instead of powdered enamels transparent enamels are used. This technique is
used on usually gold or silver. In Basse-Taille the metal shines through the
transparent enamel and adds a beautiful glaze to the enamel. All these factors
in totality give the enamelled object a three dimensional effect.
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| BASSE TAILLE |
CLOISONNE´:
the name of this technique is derived from the French word cloison, which literally means a cell. This art was most popular in
the periods between the 6th-12th century in East Roman
Empire and Gaul and Britain. In this technique flattened wires are soldered on
a metal base. The attached wires result in creation of cells or compartments.
These compartments are then filled with powdered enamel. The enamel is then
heated and fused with the metal.
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| CLOISONNE´ |
PLIQUE-A´-JOUR:
in French Plique-A´-Jour means ‘letting in daylight’. This technique is similar
to Cloisonné except for the fact that the wirework created does not have any
backing or metal attached to it and transparent enamel is suspended in the
cells of the wirework and then heated. This is used to create a stained glass
effect. Several transparent colored enamels are blended between the wires to
give that delicate water color like appearance.
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| PLIQUE-A´-JOUR |
Part-2
of this article will talk about some more interesting techniques like Acid
Etching, Embossing and Stamping.
*Pictures adopted from Google.
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